Jinja, Uganda. Who Knew?

So, after our favorite trip to Lake Vicky in Kisumu we headed off to Jinja, Uganda. The border crossing was a mess. After we walked through no-man's land, we piled 10 of us and all our luggage into the small minivan. It was so cramped. I jumped in to the front seat with Alphonce and our driver in the hopes of a little extra leg room.

After 50 meters of chaotic driving in streets full of bicycles, we approached a man on a bike carrying another man on the back. After being in a third world country for some time and driving in Egypt as well, I was nervous when we approached the bike. I gasped but it was too late as we heard the sick crunch of something under our tires. I froze for a moment and then asked Alphonce if I should open the door. I was terrified that a bloody body would be smushed under the wheel, but as I opened it I saw only bike frame. The man luckily had escaped from the tire, but he was still in bad shape. We drove him to the hospital and then waited at the police station, aka a big hut in the middle of the town.

The man turned out to have only a broken leg and our driver was prosecuted. Thank god that was the extent of the damage.

After we switched vans, we finally made it to our hotel, the Paradise on the Nile. It was in Jinja, apparently the adrenaline capitol of Africa. The next day we planned to sort out what activities we were going to do. I was after the horseback riding, of course, and river rafting. The only problem was, the rafting was Class V rapids, and though I have a lot of experience rafting, I have never seen a V.

So, the next day we sort out horseback riding. Only a ride on the back of a motorbike, a walk down to the river, a boat ride, a walk across an island, another boat ride (this boat was sinking) another 10 minute walk and we were at the stables. Ay carumba, Africa. But we showed up and the Brits working there put me on a horse named Dramatic. She was great from the start. The only forseeable problem on the ride would be another horse that was a stallion possibly wanting to mount her. Just my luck.

So we go along, no worries and then stop when our guides horse began acting up. Lo and behold, the stallion gets too close and starts sniffing my poor Dramatic. She started freaking out and I managed to kick her up and go into a nearby field while Christine got her horse under control. After that, I was able to go one on one with the local guide for a few canters. It was amazing. At one point, Dramatic saw a small stick in the road and we jumped! The rest of the ride was great, a few more exciting moments of running up hills and then it was back to the commute across the river.

In the afternoon we all decided to go quad biking (aka 4-wheeling) in the same area. It then decided to rain like hell after we had gotten on our bikes. The mud was everywhere, which promised to be great fun, but then it started hailing. We went back to the house to wait out the storm and 30 minutes later we emerged. The quad biking was going to be excellent, everything was soaking wet. Things started out great. We were tearing up the roads and spinning our tires. After a few hours, we really felt comfortable on our bikes. And then disaster hit.

I ran into a crop of turnips.

But it was okay. A few seconds and I was back on my way.

And then disaster hit again.

Stuart ran into a thatch of bushes.

But he was okay.

And that is where the evening ended. Oh, I almost forgot. Then we went to watch Christine nigh bungee jump, and then we crowded 9 people into a Toyota Corolla for a few minutes to the other side of town and back to Paradise.

Out of Africa

Sung to the tune of Toto's Africa...

Its gonna take a lot to drag me away from you
There's nothing that a hundred men or more could ever do
I bless the rains down in africa
Gonna take some time to do the things we never had

So sorry I have not blogged during my entire tour of Africa. Internet was patchy if non-existent in most places. I have seen some crazy things and I enjoyed my time here, though I may have grumbled along the way. I have plenty of stories that I journaled about which will make it on the blog in the coming weeks.

The highlights include:

Carla's horseback ride in Jinja, Uganda
The time we hit a man with a bus in Uganda
Bumpy roads numbered 67, 78 and 436.
The first time I saw a giraffe (or 15 of them)
My encounter with a leopard
An inquisitive-hostile-bush pig meets Carla's tent
Class 5 Rafting
Hearing a lion roar from 5 miles away
The first time I heard Toto's Africa playing
Negotiating the Nairobi markets


As I said, there are too many stories to name now but rest assured, my faithfuls, there is some good material coming. And without further ado, I will dive in to number one entitled, For Stress Free Writing...


For Stress Free Writing, Use Crown Pens

I flew into Kenya from Addis Ababa, and before that from Rome. The Rome adventure included the Italians as previously mentioned. I met a really cool Canadian woman who helped me to unwind. So then after negotiating a taxi price I made it to the hotel. It was in a quiet part of town near the University. I met the group comprised of 2 Missourians, a family of 3 Chinese Canadians, another Chinese man who lives in Canada, 2 Brits in their 20's and Alphonce our Tanzanian guide.

We had the opening meeting and got the trip sorted out. Our plan for the next day was to get up early to catch a bus to Kisumu, the 3rd largest city in Kenya. Never heard of it? Neither had I. So we get to the bus station via one stinky taxi ride. The bus rolls up. It is a coach bus with all the windows blacked out. As I ascended the steps in the bus I almost gagged from the smell. The body odor was horrendous not to mention the fact that there were 50 people and absolutely no air movement to speak of. I sat down and got the whole seat to myself. We took off and after a few minutes the gentle rocking lulled me to sleep.

Wa-bam. Wham. I jolted awake. It seems we had left the immediate outskirts of Nairobi and were on the "highway." I looked down the aisle and almost screamed as we swerved to miss an oncoming bus. It seems that though Kenya was a British colony and they are supposed to drive on the left side, all the drivers are tempted over to the right. The oncoming traffic wants to drive on their right. We want to drive on our right. Why don't they simply change sides of the road? That would prevent things like the last minute swerve from happening. But no, that would be logical. More logical would be to pave roads. But that is an entire other blog entry.

So we continue on like this for 5 more hours. Seriously, 5 more. We stop at a small gas station to eat lunch. Lunch choices were either a sketchy looking buffet (no thanks, the bus stinks enough) or the supermarket. I was excited with the prospect of eating some Kenyan snacks. I chose carefully a box of cream cookies. For about 35 cents, you can't be wrong.

But I was.

Since the selection in the store was limited to cookies or bread, I thought I chose wisely and safely. The cookies were the grossest sweet I have ever eaten. Manufactured sugar covered in sugar. You know that feeling you get on your teeth when you eat something so sugary that they start to hurt? Yeah. Exactly.

That was my lunch. We get back in the bus. The stink has intensified in the afternoon heat. I forgot to mention the noise. Apparently the bus driver thinks we like the talk radio on really really loudly. Two African woman discussing... who should paint a house. For 2 hours. On full blast. Nobody was enjoying it.

Another 4 more hours and we roll in to Kisumu. It was a booming metropolis. No, I'm just kidding. Another stinky taxi ride and we are at the New Victoria Hotel, right on Lake Victoria. It was simple to say the least. But at least it was quiet and had a bathroom. If you compare the alternative to camping, the NVH was a palace. After showering we had dinner at the hotel restaurant. It was mostly Indian food which turned out to be good. The next day we planned to go out on Lake Victoria and take a boat ride to an island with a crazy monkey population.

The next day emerges. We ride the boat that looks like it would have been condemned in the United States around 30 years ago. But it has a GAP sticker on it (the tour company) so it must be relatively safe, right? We head out and spot a hippo on the way. It was about 200 meters away from us and we were trying really hard to get pictures of it. Eluded. Then they started telling us about this crazy plant called Hyacinth that is taking over the Lake Vicky as we affectionately called her. The Hyacinth apparently was blocking the way to the island. So after a few hours on the boat, we turn around and go to this small island that has a fishing colony. It was interesting to see. Every tree we saw our local guide identified and then told us the genus and species name. Who knows if he was right. After a few more hours we headed back to Kisumu town and our lovely hotel.

That concludes day 2. And right before bed we got a lovely visit from Alfred the gecko hanging out in our room. It was an adventure trying to get him out of our room but some creative towel throwing encouraged his departure.

463 Steps

Last night was an interesting one. I went to dinner with Sam the Canadian and Neil the Brit. We had a really cool dinner that went on for hours just around the corner from our hostel. Then Neil had to get his train ticket so we walked to Termini to get it. After that, you guessed it, we ended up in the bar back at the hostel.

I am pretty sure besides Big 12 or Harpo's I have never frequented a bar 3 times in 3 days. But it was a good place to hang out and chill and meet other travelers.

So anyway, the aforementioned bartender was there (already the night had improved) and we sat down and started talking. If you have spent any time with me on this trip you know my frustrations with the Canadian flag. It really irks me. But I had a nice long conversation with Sam about the differences between Canadians and Americans and why there is such animosity there. It turns out 2 other Americans were sitting next to us and so they joined in the conversation as well.

After a few more rounds, we had life sorted out. And that's when things really started getting interesting. Neil had left by this point but earlier in the night he was talking about the best bands in the world. I volunteered Dave Matthews as one of them and he said he had never heard of Dave. I was incredulous so then I looked for some DMB on Adrian the Bartender's iPod. Unfortunately, no dice.

The rest of the night was fun and uneventful for the most part. I headed off to Florence this morning. After I got slightly lost leaving the train station I found my hostel. It is built in a really old building, possibly an old castle. Oh wait, no. It smells, so make that the old castle's stables. And I ring this doorbell and open the medieval door. It is dark and I cannot find the light switch to save my life. Then, I saw it was supposed to be on the 1st floor. I ascended into the darkness. And there was no sign or anything. So I called out, Hellooo? and this small voice responded back, Hi. That was it, nothing about come up, go down, turn the lights on, yes you are in the right building, no you didn't just walk into a random old apartment complex... it could go on and on.

But I made it and the room is just about as bad as I imagined. Hopefully I can get the hell out tomorrow and go stay at a different one because it creeps me out thinking I have to stay there. First of all, it is just a huge room reminiscent of the ward they kept Nona in in Como. Second, it smells. Bad. Third, there maybe one other person in the room. Not a good sign that this place is nice.

So after I got settled in I headed out into town. I managed to find the markets, not hard, and more miraculously managed to not buy anything. I went to the Duomo and walked up it. 463 steps... creepy. But the view was amazing and I was glad I did it.

Alright, off to sort out what to do tomorrow seeing as how I need a new room...

My Nap In Ostia Antica

Arrival in Roma. Check.

Arrival at hostel. Check.

Exploration of the city. Check.

Meeting new friends. Check.

It seems the only thing I haven't done yet in Rome is go out. But that changes tonight.

The hostel I am staying at offers free pizza every night at 8:30. What poor traveller in their right mind could possibly pass that up? So I walk in to the bar, a somewhat crowded room, and pick a table with 3 friendly looking girls sitting at it. Apparently they really looked friendly because another girl who didn't know them had just sat down as well.

So, it turns out Abby and Emma are from Britain. They study classics at Birmingham Uni, a perfect match for my sight-seeing in Rome. So we had a great night of drinking somewhat overpriced beer and talking about their travels.

The next day we got up really early and went to the Colosseum. It was really cool to see but I have to say not as awe-inspiring as I thought initially. After seeing Aida performed in the Verona Colosseum, just walking around another one wasn't as cool, but still worth it to go. Then we walked all around the Palatine and the Forum. After that, we grabbed some food and headed off on the train to Ostia Antica, the old Roman port town.

I was extremely tired from getting back from Egypt and not sleeping much for a week. So, after we walked around for a while and then got food I decided to take a nap. The only problem was I had some criteria for the nap.

1. On a bench - not on the ground
2. Somewhat out of the way so as not to be disturbed
3. Not some place I would get yelled at
4. Half shade, half sun

After perusing through the streets for a few minutes I chose to lie on a stone block. It fit the criteria well and I settled in, putting my bag under my head.

And then the dream began.

I was a Roman citizen, walking around the city. I just wanted to buy some bread but everyone kept telling me that they didn't sell bread in the port. It was so lucid I swear I was there. And then I woke up to some German tourists walking by and I was so confused.

After we headed back into the city, the girls and I got ready for the night. We were all going to go eat dinner together but I got talking to the bartender whom I had joked with the night before. He is Aussie, from Melbourne... and he got his degree in journalism as well. He pretty much wants to do exactly the same thing I am doing down in Sydney. And as if that weren't crazy enough, he plays soccer. Defensive Center Mid. Crazy!

So after another busy day today where we went to see the Vatican here I sit. No free pizza again, tonight I will pay for my dinner. (Which will probably consist of pizza)

We got up early and went to the Vatican thinking we would beat the crowd. Turns out, no, we were in the middle of the crowd. After 2 hours of waiting we hustled through to see the Sistine Chapel. At least I can say I've done it. After that, a brief jaunt over to St. Peter's and then a leisurely lunch.

Off to Firenze tomorrow and probably a crazy night tonight.